It's the holy grail of travel: the perfect tropical milky white sand beach with its clear turquoise waters, swaying palm trees, unspoiled by droves of tourists. Does it exist? Jose Marte

It hits you first from below, when, looking out the window of the 19-seater SEAIR aircraft on the way from Busuanga to El Nido,  you see little islands – unspoiled and green with white sandy beaches, and coral-skirted reefs under the midmorning tide, shaped and strewn by nature in an extra ordinary moment of creativity.

On a bright, clear day, the islands, islets and keys in Bacuit Bay, 45 in all, stand distinct, marvelous. Under an overcast sky, they appear like thin layers of light, gray brushstrokes

The El Nido airport has a tiny wooden entrance a few steps from the unpaved runway, with a water tank parked beside it. A simple welcome sign underneath the unpainted triangular wooden roof reminds you of where you are: an insular place with rural utilities. But, just past it, three hammocks hang languorously in the shade of the trees, and further on is the passenger terminal that looks more like a resort clubhouse. In the town proper, the “bayan” as residents call it, has stores and some inns that overlook the shore and Palawan’s signature limestone cliffs. From the sandy shore of the “bayan,” pump boats are readily available for exploring the limestone islands and their beaches. My brief is to find out which of these beaches fit the idyllic holidaymakers’ image — a white sand, crystal clear beach under sunny skies, preferably uninhabited, except for minions who will serve you piñacolada at the snap of your fingers.